There were very few women on my mostly full 737 to Tehran. On boarding the flight only one had a head scarf on. By the time we landed in Tehran they all did.

Just in case you had any doubts about how Iran feels about Israel and America they have posters at passport control that show soldiers shooting at images of Palestinians with blood dripping onto a broken Star of David. The English part read ‘Down with Israel Down with America’.

The airport taxi guys were the usual bunch of overcharging lying (you pay 400 percent cheap cheap, your hotel no good, I know better one) tossers. It’s nice to know that some things never change.

Watched some local TV but couldn’t decide between the ‘praying dude channel’ or the ‘music video of soft focus violence against Zionist occupiers’ so turned it off.

Sleep at 5am.

No time to waste. Up at 9am.

Headed to Ghazvin where I could head out to Alamut and the castles of the assassins which are apparently very beautiful. People were very helpful one guy even gave me a lift to the local bus station on the back of his bike and wouldn’t take any baksheesh. Sadly despite my best efforts I did not make it there before dark so headed back to Tehran. Should have just taxied the whole journey from the beginning.

Interestingly one of the buses I caught was segregated. All the boys sat at the front and all the girls sat at the back. When I was eleven my intermediate school’s bendy bus was also segregated because there was too much pashing and stuff on the back seat. Coincidence?

The dress code for women in public here seems quite simple. Anything black that looks like a tent and covers your entire body will do. Even crossing the road at night and even in the baking midday heat.

There was a huge march in Tehran today to protest against the Zionist occupiers (Israel). They even had effigies of Bush, Blaire and Sharon. From the news it looked like many thousand turned up. They really hate Israel here.

All through Eastern Europe I wore shorts, even when it was a bit nippy. I got many odd looks for this. Now that I am in warm country I am wearing long pants and long sleeve shirts. Is it me that is nuts or is it everyone else?